Free Climbing on holiday!

There are many experiences we like to offer you, some are more traditional and generally suitable for the whole family, others can also become a more individual moment. In this new appointment of „Around with Marta“ I thought it was very nice to propose something a little bit more extreme than usual, and that might surprise those who think that the area of Costa Rei is fantastic only for the beautiful sea!

But this time I won’t be the one who tried it in the first person: I involved my friend Marta, who like me, loves and lives this territory all year round and I got some details about one of her passions: free climbing!

Do you know that there are 5 places more or less close, but easily accessible from the campsite by car, where you can practice, even on holiday, this exciting activity?! Each of them has some peculiarities (which I will describe briefly) to which you must pay attention!

Fortunately, we have Marta, who told me all the details and will be at your disposal at the reception 😉

We could even define this appointment as „Around with Marta elevated 2“ 😉

Climbing in Costa Rei – Monte Nai [10 routes – difficulty from 4a to 6a/b- access from above]

Let’s start from the nearest: it is located in Monte Nai, near the famous „House of the Countess“ (if you are unaware of the legend that hovers around this villa, pass by at the reception, we will talk about it).

It is about 2 km away from the campsite and it is a wall that can be accessed almost from the road and from above, even if normally the climbing starts from the bottom: in fact, the most experienced track passing its referrals in the rings that form the route, closing it at the peak and thus making sure who will go up with him.

This detail is important for families for example: let’s say that one of the parents is very practical and wants to insert the children, in this case he can abseil from the top and securing the way for the children.

“It is a particular rock that tends to put a strain on the hands, because it crumbles and splits, which is not the case at Cava Usai” tells me Marta.

Monte Nai

Climbing in Costa Rei – Castiadas Maloccu [8 routes – difficulty 5 b/c – even ground referrals]

Another interesting wall is in Maloccu locality, about 6 and a half km from the campsite. Maloccu’s route is a „new route“: recently was bolted and closed by the “Vecchi Ragni” association (of which Marta is a member), which gave the name and as happens in these cases, now takes care to keep it always clean and traced.

It is a monobloc rock but articulated on several levels and there is the possibility to put the first referrals from the ground, so in total safety, for this is suitable for beginners and experts both.

Once you reach the top, the view is beautiful and in addition to an expanse of greenery on a valley rich in archaeological sites, you can also see the sea!

Maloccu

Climbing in Villasimius – Cava Usai [40 routes]

Do you remember when I told you about the trekking at Cava Usai in Villasimius and the beautiful granite that shone on the side of the wall next to the path? It is also a wonderful place to climb! It is not necessary to do all the way, you can directly leave your car in the parking lots of the beach of Cava Usai.

Marta during our chat describes it like this: “Why does everyone like Cava Usai? Because it is a smooth, beautiful, panoramic wall, you are on the beach… You can climb it and then swim in the sea!

Think that if you go in the morning you have the opportunity to climb in a wall in the shade and at the same day, in the afternoon, you move to another point of the wall and you are again in the shade… and then it is so panoramic and you even see the Isola dei Cavoli!

Another advantage is that it has so many routes that in the end there is something for everyone: children, adults, experts… nobody gets bored! Here again, however, you have to pay some attention because Cava Usai is very scenic, but in some periods it is impossible to climb except in the late morning ‚cause humidity.

Cava Usai

SS.125 – Loc. Campuomu (about 25 Km. from the Campingplace) – Elephant Plate [difficulty 4b/c]

For those who want to try a long but simple route, also excellent for children at the first experiences with the long routes there is the Elephant Plate.

It is located on the old SS125 just after the Roman bridge, direction Campuomu.

The landscape is beautiful, above the Rio Cannas and the wall has a height of 130 meters but is very simple.

Placca dell’Elefante

Villaputzu – Cliffs of Quirra (about 40 km. from the Camping) [4 sectors – 80-90 routes]

Densely frequented are certainly the cliffs of Quirra (below the famous castle). Just the one below the castle is spectacular: it is about 40 meters and is beautiful and has the advantage of being very sheltered, so it is also recommended on a windy day.

Quirra is well known, also because it is close to „more climbers“ destinations like Baunei and having different levels satisfies all tastes and especially during any time of the year because it has a beautiful exposure to the sun and is indeed sheltered.

The Elephant Plate and Quirra, compared to the others, are more distant from the campsite and it is necessary at least half a day to fully enjoy climbing, and even just for the breathtaking landscapes, it is definitely worth going there!

Considering, however, their more isolated position, where there are no refreshment points and often the mobile phone does not receive the signal excellently, it is better to be careful and then gets prepared (all factors that experts certainly evaluate every time and for each climb).

For all the technical details, come and visit us at the reception, it is always a pleasure to add that extra touch that can make your camping holiday an unforgettable experience!

Falesie Quirra

N.B. We suggest arriving in Sardinia with a minimum of personal equipment.

To buy something you will need to go to Cagliari city.

A special thanks to my friend Marta and the “Vecchi Ragni” association, who shared with us their passion and their pictures!

To the next adventure.

Marta